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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.